When it comes to skincare, there’s a lot of jargon being thrown around these days. For instance, last week we talked a lot about The Great Self-Care Wave of 2018 (spoiler alert: it’s not going anywhere anytime soon). So when I heard all the buzz about dermaplaning, I knew I had to see it for myself.

Dermaplaning? Give me details, stat.

Dermaplaning is a skincare treatment that scrapes the top-most layer of skin and fine hairs from the face using a sterile, surgical-grade scalpel. It exfoliates the outer layers of dead skin cells and vellus hair, aka peach fuzz, by scraping the skin with a 10-gauge blade at a 45-degree angle.

Sounds interesting. But what’s the point?

Good question. It’s used to eliminate dead skin cells and pollution buildup, allowing topical skincare products to penetrate deeper for up to 4 weeks after the treatment. In other words, the deeper your skincare can go, the more effective it can be.

Nice! How’d it go?

It may be tempting to DIY your dermaplaning—tools are readily available in stores like Sephora—but I wouldn’t recommend it. Instead, I had this treatment performed by a licensed esthetician. It was a painless procedure that took about 10-15 minutes to complete. Afterwards, I followed the treatment with a mild glycolic peel and made sure to use SPF before leaving the office (psst...your skin is more vulnerable to UV rays after exfoliation!).

The Results

True, I did notice that my skin was smoother. And make-up application was more seamless for a few weeks after the treatment (can’t complain here!). Another pro? I noticed my products seemed to be working slightly better after the treatment, as promised. A few of those stubborn sun spots started fading more rapidly, and a few areas where I tend to have hormonal breakouts cleared more easily. However, the improved product absorption seemed to only last for about a week after the treatment, not the four weeks suggested.

Here’s my breakdown of the pros and cons of dermaplaning:

The Pros

• Excellent exfoliation
• Removal of fine hair may decrease exposure to pollution and bacteria buildup on your face, which can lead to breakouts and dull-looking skin

• Temporarily improved product absorption
• Temporarily smoothed skin and created seamless makeup application

The Cons

• Increased sun sensitivity
• Cost of treatments are typically $150 and above, and it’s more effective to combine it with a peel—which only increases the price
• Maintenance and upkeep will have you returning every 4-6 weeks for subsequent treatments
• Regrowth of hair made my face feel a bit rough around week three

What’s the Verdict?

Despite the results, I’m not going back for another treatment anytime soon.

I felt the only true benefit was improved product absorption. And while this is certainly a plus, I’ve noticed a similar response by exfoliating with a chemical or physical scrub at home (psst...this Strawberry Rhubarb Dermafoliant by Eminence is two-in-one!).

Dermaplaning was costly, and I definitely don’t have the time to return every 4-6 weeks to keep up with the treatments. I also didn’t like the noticeable regrowth of my peach fuzz around week three—which would still be too soon to receive a subsequent treatment.

Speaking of peach fuzz, I like to think it actually does serve a purpose for your skin. Vellus hair not only helps regulate your temperature, it also acts as a mild barrier between your skin, possibly preventing some pollution and bacteria from getting in. My recommendation? It’s probably more important to wash your face before bed (you’ll save more money this way, too).

To be fair I only had one treatment, but the results were not-so-noteworthy to keep up with the costly maintenance of such treatments.

How about you? What are your thoughts on dermaplaning? Leave a comment below.