Written and Reviewed by Sarah Otto, Dermatology Nurse Practitioner and Founder of Otto Skin Goods

If you've tried every eye cream on the market with little to show for it, you're not alone! Dark circles can feel frustratingly stubborn, but they're rarely a lost cause. More often than not, they just need the right approach. Below, we're breaking down everything: causes, types, and the treatments that actually work. Here's what you need to know…

Which Type of Dark Circles Do I Have: Vascular or Hyperpigmentation?

Many people don’t realize this, but under-eye dark circles usually fall into two common categories. Before we break down a few of the causes and treatments for the bags under your eyes, we first need to identify which kind you have:

1. Vascular Dark Circles: Blue or purple in color from visible blood vessels and thin skin.

2. Hyperpigmented Dark Circles: Brown in color from excess melanin in the skin.

Simple, right? Unfortunately, it can be difficult to discern which category you fall into upon first glance. Luckily, you can determine whether you have vascular or hyperpigmented dark circles by using the pinch test. Here’s how:

Taking your thumb and pointer finger, gently pull a small area of skin from under your eyes away from your face. If the skin is your normal color and tone, then it’s vascular. If your skin is discolored, however, then it’s an issue of hyperpigmentation.

Now that you know which under-eye circles you may have, let’s get down to causes and treatment for each.

Your Guide to Vascular Dark Circles

What causes Vascular Dark Circles?

Before we jump into treatment, we first need to understand how vascular dark circles come about. Simply put, this particular type of under-eye circles are caused by the visibility of blood vessels beneath the delicate skin under your eyes. Because the skin in this area is some of the thinnest on the body, the bluish or purplish hue of the underlying veins and capillaries can show through, creating a shadowy appearance. Several factors can worsen this effect, including poor sleep, allergies, genetics and loss of collagen. Let’s take a look at each…

Poor Sleep, Allergies & Genetics

Poor sleep and fatigue cause blood vessels to dilate, increasing blood pooling beneath the eyes and making the dark tones more visible. Allergies trigger inflammation and the release of histamines, which also dilate blood vessels and can lead to rubbing of the eyes, further aggravating the appearance. Genetics play a significant role as well; those with a family history of dark circles, naturally thinner under-eye skin, or deeper-set eyes are simply more predisposed to the condition.

Loss of Fat & Collagen with Aging

As we age, the skin gradually loses collagen and fat, becoming thinner and less able to conceal the blood vessels beneath it. This loss of volume and elasticity means that vascular dark circles often become more noticeable over time, even in people who weren't significantly affected in their younger years.

Treatments for Vascular Dark Circles

Topical Skincare

• Caffeine Eye Creams: Caffeine is a vasoconstrictor that temporarily narrows blood vessels beneath the skin, reducing the blood pooling and bluish-purple discoloration associated with vascular dark circles.

• Vitamin C: Vitamin C brightens the under-eye area while supporting collagen synthesis, helping to strengthen the skin and reduce the visibility of underlying blood vessels over time.

• Low-Strength Retinol: Retinol stimulates collagen production and cell turnover, gradually thickening the delicate under-eye skin so it is better able to conceal the blood vessels beneath it.

• Peptides: Peptides signal the skin to boost collagen and elastin production, improving firmness and thickness in the under-eye area and softening the appearance of vascular dark circles over time.

Lifestyle Changes

Although we wish topical treatments could work its magic alone, vascular dark circles benefit greatly from a few lifestyle changes, too. Sleeping for 7–9 hours each night allows your body to repair itself and prevents blood vessel dilation. Additionally, managing allergies with antihistamines reduces inflammation and eye rubbing. You’ll also want to reduce your salt and alcohol intake, because these make the under-eye area appear more congested and dark. Finally, apply a cold compress to your eyes for a few minutes each day. This constricts blood vessels and reduces puffiness in the short-term.

Procedures

Struggling to treat your vascular dark circles with topical skincare and lifestyle changes alone? You may want to talk to your dermatologist or your doctor about the following procedures:

• Pulsed-Dye or Vascular Lasers: These laser treatments target and break down visible blood vessels beneath the under-eye skin, making them one of the more direct and effective clinical options for reducing vascular dark circles.

• Hyaluronic Acid Fillers: Fillers can restore lost volume in the tear-trough area to reduce shadowing, but be forewarned. They come with notable drawbacks, including the risk of migration, expansion, and an unnatural appearance over time.

• PRP (Platelet-Rich Plasma): PRP involves injecting concentrated growth factors from the patient's own blood into the under-eye area to stimulate collagen production. This gradually thickens the skin and reduces the visibility of underlying blood vessels.

Your Guide to Hyperpigmented Dark Circles

What causes Hyperpigmented Dark Circles?

Hyperpigmented dark circles are caused by an excess of melanin (aka, the pigment responsible for skin color) deposited in your under-eye area. Unlike vascular dark circles, which have a bluish or purplish tone, hyperpigmented dark circles tend to appear brown or tan in color. Several factors can contribute to or worsen this type of dark circle:

Genetics & Sun Exposure

Genetics play a major role here. Some of us are simply predisposed to higher melanin production in the under-eye area—particularly in those with medium to deeper skin tones. Sun exposure can further stimulate melanin production, as UV rays trigger the skin's pigment-producing cells. This causes darkening that’s especially pronounced in the delicate skin beneath the eyes.

Rubbing Your Eyes & Post-Inflammatory Pigmentation

Frequently rubbing your eyes can cause repeated low-grade trauma to your skin. Over time, this can lead to inflammation that stimulates melanin production. Similarly, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation can occur after any irritation, injury, or inflammatory skin condition in the under-eye area, leaving behind a darkened appearance even after the initial issue has resolved. Some causes of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation include eczema, pimples, styes or skin infections, as well as harsh ingredients from skincare products or makeup.

Treatments for Hyperpigmented Dark Circles

Topical Skincare

• Vitamin C: A powerful antioxidant that inhibits melanin production while brightening the skin tone, helping to fade the brown or tan discoloration characteristic of hyperpigmented dark circles.

• Niacinamide: A form of Vitamin B3 that reduces the transfer of melanin to the skin's surface, gradually evening out pigmentation and improving the overall tone of the under-eye area.

• Azelaic Acid: A gentle yet effective ingredient that targets overactive pigment-producing cells, making it a good option for reducing hyperpigmentation while being mild enough for sensitive under-eye skin.

• Kojic Acid: Derived from fungi, kojic acid works by inhibiting the enzyme responsible for melanin production, helping to lighten existing pigmentation and prevent further darkening in the under-eye area.

• Licorice Extract: A natural ingredient containing glabridin, which suppresses melanin production and has anti-inflammatory properties, making it effective for both fading existing pigmentation and calming the irritation that can trigger further discoloration.

• Low-Strength Retinol: By accelerating cell turnover, retinol helps bring fresher, less pigmented skin cells to the surface over time, gradually reducing the appearance of hyperpigmented dark circles while also strengthening the delicate under-eye skin.

Prescription Treatments

• Hydroquinone: One of the most effective treatments for hyperpigmented dark circles. It’s a skin-lightening agent that directly inhibits melanin production. However, it’s typically recommended for short-term use only, due to the risk of irritation and rebound pigmentation with prolonged use.

• Tretinoin: A stronger form of retinol that accelerates cell turnover and encourages the shedding of pigmented skin cells. This produces more noticeable and faster results than over-the-counter retinol for stubborn hyperpigmented dark circles.

Procedures

Similar to vascular dark circles, sometimes treating hyperpigmented dark circles with topical skincare and lifestyle changes isn’t enough. If so, talk to your dermatologist about the following procedures:

• Chemical Peels: Very gentle chemical peels can be applied to the under-eye area to exfoliate pigmented surface skin cells.

• Laser Pigmentation Treatments: Lasers that target melanin, such as fractional or Q-switched lasers, can break down excess pigment deposits in the under-eye area.

• Microneedling: Microneedling uses fine needles to create controlled micro-injuries in the skin. This stimulates collagen production and enhances the absorption of brightening topical ingredients.

Lifestyle Changes

UV exposure is one of the primary triggers for excess melanin production (you know where we’re going with this). Applying a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher around the eye area daily helps prevent further darkening. Not to mention, it’s an essential step in any treatment plan for hyperpigmentation. Why? Because without it, other treatments you use will be working against a continued source of pigmentation.

What If I Have Both Vascular & Hyperpigmented Dark Circles?

It’s true! You can have both vascular and hyperpigmented dark circles, as well as hollowing. In fact, it’s very common (you’re not alone!). If you’re overwhelmed by the amount of treatment options, stick to this typical dermatologist plan:

• Retinol + Vitamin C Eye Cream: Retinol thickens the skin and accelerates cell turnover to reduce pigmentation. Vitamin C brightens the under-eye area and supports collagen production to better conceal underlying blood vessels.

• Daily Sunscreen: UV exposure worsens hyperpigmentation while also breaking down the collagen that helps keep vascular dark circles less visible.

• Occasional Caffeine Eye Treatment: Caffeine's vasoconstrictive properties make it a useful treatment for vascular dark circles. It also offers temporary relief from puffiness and discoloration.

• Laser or Filler (Structural): When dark circles are worsened by volume loss or visible vessels—laser treatments or hyaluronic acid fillers may be recommended by a clinician to address the underlying causes more directly.

Otto Skin Goods Treatment for Under-Eye Dark Circles

The No Regrets Eye Cream is a multi-target treatment designed to address the full spectrum of under-eye concerns. Think: vascular dark circles, hyperpigmented dark circles, puffiness, and fine lines and wrinkles. We’ve carefully combined retinol, peptides, caffeine, antioxidants, and barrier-supporting moisturizers—with each ingredient group targeting a different underlying cause of under-eye aging and discoloration.

The heart of our formula? Encapsulated retinol. This gentle, yet effective retinol is perfect for your delicate under-eye area. It works to fade hyperpigmentation, boost collagen production, and thicken the skin over time, making it one of the most versatile ingredients for tackling both pigmented and vascular dark circles simultaneously.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the two most common types of dark circles?

Vascular Dark Circles: Blue or purple in color from visible blood vessels and thin skin.

Hyperpigmented Dark Circles: Brown in color from excess melanin in the skin.

How do you perform the pinch test for dark circles?

Gently pull a small area of skin from under your eyes away from your face. If the skin is your normal color and tone, then it’s vascular. If your skin is discolored, however, then it’s an issue of hyperpigmentation.

What causes Vascular Dark Circles?

Vascular under-eye circles occur when blood vessels show through the thin skin beneath the eyes, creating a bluish or shadowy appearance. This can be worsened by poor sleep or allergies (both of which dilate blood vessels), genetics, and aging—as the skin loses collagen and fat over time, the vessels become even more visible.

How do you treat Vascular Dark Circles?

Topical treatments like caffeine eye creams, vitamin C, retinol, and peptides can help by constricting blood vessels, brightening the area, and building collagen to thicken the skin over time. Lifestyle changes also make a meaningful difference. Prioritize 7–9 hours of sleep, manage allergies with antihistamines, reduce salt and alcohol intake, and apply a cold compress daily. For more stubborn cases, procedures like vascular lasers, hyaluronic acid fillers, and PRP therapy are available through a dermatologist, each working to either target visible vessels or restore volume and skin thickness beneath the eyes.

What causes Hyperpigmented Dark Circles?

Hyperpigmented dark circles are caused by excess melanin in the under-eye area, giving them a brown or tan tone rather than the bluish hue of vascular circles. They're primarily driven by genetics, particularly in medium to deeper skin tones. Additionally, they are worsened by sun exposure, frequent eye rubbing, and post-inflammatory responses from irritants like eczema, breakouts, or harsh skincare products.

How do you treat Hyperpigmented Dark Circles?

Topical options for hyperpigmented dark circles include vitamin C, niacinamide, azelaic acid, kojic acid, licorice extract, and retinol. These inhibit melanin production. For more stubborn cases, prescription hydroquinone or tretinoin can deliver faster results, and procedures like chemical peels, pigment-targeting lasers, and microneedling are available through a dermatologist. Regardless of which treatments you use, daily SPF 30+ around the eye area is essential.

What if I have both Vascular & Hyperpigmented Dark Circles?

Having both types is common. A simple dermatologist-approved routine covers most bases: a retinol + vitamin C eye cream to thicken skin, reduce pigmentation, and support collagen; daily SPF to prevent further damage; and an occasional caffeine eye treatment for temporary vascular relief. For persistent cases, a dermatologist may recommend laser treatments or fillers.