Acids can be a beautiful addition to your skincare routine. However, there’s a fine line between great results and going overboard. Those with sensitive skin know this to be true—but even more balanced and oily skin types can disrupt their skin’s barrier, causing irritation, redness and worsened skin conditions.

The bottom line? Acids work quickly and efficiently to achieve healthy, glowing skin—which can be addictive. Unfortunately, overuse can result in the opposite effect. Acids have a meaningful place in your skincare routine, but you need to know how and when and which type of acid to use.

Of all the different acids on the market today, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are the most effective and the most irritating. The top AHAs include Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Mandelic Acid and Fruit Acids, also referred to as Multifruit AHAs. These acids are water-soluble and exfoliate the skin, which help to smooth, soften, fade dark spots, improve breakouts and even minimize fine lines and wrinkles. However, if overused, it can lead to redness, dry or flaky skin and irritation. Overtime, it can also cause skin dehydration, creating more pronounced fine lines and wrinkles, making your skin look prematurely aged.

Here are some of the top reasons to incorporate an AHA into your skincare routine:

• Promotes collagen production
• Fades discoloration and evens tone
• Smooths the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
• Reduces breakouts
• Brightens your complexion
• Improves product absorption

Out of all these benefits, the most important is improved product absorption. Because of this, you’ll want to pair your AHA with other superstar ingredients like Niacinamide and Vitamin C. Gently exfoliating just before, or in combination with these ingredients helps them work even better. Keep in mind that AHAs increase sun sensitivity, so it’s best to use all of these ingredients together at night.

Each skin type requires different AHA routines. Here are three different plans based on sensitive, balanced and oily/acne-prone (for those who are oily but not acne prone, follow the balanced skin plan)...

How to Use AHAs for Sensitive Skin

Those with sensitive skin may experience occasional redness, eczema or rosacea. In general, you may break out into rashes or experience blotchy, itchy or stinging reactions from the weather or skincare products.

Day Shift: Your Morning Skincare Routine

1. Step One: Rinse your face with warm water in the AM.
2. Step Two: Apply an antioxidant serum with hydrating ingredients, such as Hyaluronic Acid or Ceramides.
3. Step Three: Apply SPF.

Night Shift: Your Nightly Skincare Routine

1. Step One: Wash your face with a gentle cleanser.
2. Step Two: Apply a powerhouse serum that has highly effective ingredients, such as Niacinamide and/or Vitamin C with a mild AHA (like a Multifruit AHA or Mandelic Acid). Depending on your skin’s sensitivity, you may only be able to tolerate this type of serum two to three times a week.
3. Step Three: Follow up with your esthetician for a quarterly or seasonal facial. Opt for a Lactic Acid or Mandelic treatment no more than four times a year.

Product Recommendations:

• Otto Skin Goods The Go-Getter Day Serum: Plant-based antioxidants, Vitamin C, Hyaluronic Acid and plumping peptides (use daily in the AM)
• Otto Skin Goods The Multitasker Night Serum: Powerhouse Niacinamide, licorice root, bearberry extracts and mildly exfoliating Multifruit AHA (use daily in the PM)
• CeraVe Hydrating Mineral Sunscreen Face Lotion: SPF 30 with sheer tint (use daily)
• Aveeno Positively Mineral Sensitive Skin Sunscreen: SPF 50 with zinc oxide and nourishing oat (use daily)
• ColoreScience Sunforgettable Total Protection: Brush-on powder sunscreen, with SPF 30 (use daily)

How to Use AHAs for Balanced Skin

Those with a balanced skin type are neither too dry nor too oily. You’re not prone to breakouts, flakiness, sensitivity, blemishes or grease. Your pores may be on the smaller side, and your skin texture can be described as smooth.

Day Shift: Your Morning Skincare Routine

1. Step One: Rinse face with warm water in the AM.
2. Step Two: Apply an antioxidant serum with hydrating Hyaluronic Acid and plumping peptides.
3. Step Three: Apply tinted sunscreen or any makeup with SPF to save a step

Night Shift: Your Nightly Skincare Routine

1. Step One: Wash face with a gentle cleanser.
2. Step Two: Apply a powerhouse serum that has highly effective ingredients, such as Niacinamide and/or Vitamin C with a mild AHA (like a Multifruit AHA or Mandelic Acid).
3. Step Three: You may choose to add a retinol product or glycolic/lactic acid solution no more than twice a week.
4. Step Four: Follow up with an esthetician for a quarterly facial and request a glycolic acid peel. Your esthetician can recommend the best plan for incorporating stronger acids during your facial—you may need to use Lactic Acid instead, especially during the winter months.

Product Recommendations:

• Otto Skin Goods The Go-Getter Day Serum: Plant-based antioxidants, Vitamin C, Hyaluronic Acid and plumping peptides (use daily in the AM)
• Otto Skin Goods The Multitasker Night Serum: Powerhouse Niacinamide, licorice root, bearberry extracts and mildly exfoliating Multifruit AHA (use daily in the PM)
• Tower 28 SunnyDays: Tinted mineral SPF 30 with light-medium coverage (use daily)
• bareMinerals Complexion Rescue: Tinted SPF 30 with hyaluronic acid (use daily)
• Coola Mineral Face Organic Sunscreen Lotion: Tinted SPF 30 with sheer matte finish (use daily)
• Pixi Glow Tonic: 5% Glycolic Acid toner and exfoliator (use 2x/week)
• Summer Fridays Reset AHA Exfoliating Solution: 3-in-1 Lactic and Glycolic Acid (use 2x/week)
• Versed Weekend Glow: Brightening toner with AHAs (use 2x/week)

How to Use AHAs for Oily or Acne-Prone Skin

Those with an oily skin type experience excess oil on the face, giving off a shiny or greasy appearance. You likely experience blackheads, pimples and other types of acne, as your pores are prone to clogging.

Day Shift: Your Morning Skincare Routine

1. Step One: Cleanse morning and night with a mild cleanser. You may want to add a salicylic or glycolic acid cleanser at night, if dealing with mild to moderate breakouts.
2. Step Two: Apply an antioxidant-rich serum with Vitamin C and hydrating ingredients, like Hyaluronic Acid, to offset stronger acids you’re using in your routine.
3. Step Three: Use an SPF product ideal for oily skin.

Night Shift: Your Nightly Skincare Routine

1. Step One: Cleanse with a gentle cleanser or glycolic or salicylic cleanser.
2. Step Two: Apply a powerhouse serum that has highly effective ingredients, such as Niacinamide and/or Vitamin C with a mild AHA (like a Multifruit AHA or Mandelic Acid).
3. Step Three: Add a stronger AHA solution three to four times a week, and rotate it with a retinol product two to three times a week.
4. Step Four: Work with your esthetician to formulate an acne plan for facials. This can be very effective for treating acne when paired with the correct at-home routine.

Product Recommendations:

• Otto Skin Goods The Go-Getter Day Serum: Plant-based antioxidants, Vitamin C, Hyaluronic Acid and plumping peptides (use daily in the AM)
• Otto Skin Goods The Multitasker Night Serum: Powerhouse Niacinamide, licorice root, bearberry extracts and mildly exfoliating Multifruit AHA (use daily in the PM)
• CeraVe Renewing SA Cleanser: Salicylic Acid foaming gel cleanser (use daily in the PM)
• Dermatologist’s Choice pH Balanced Cleanser: Glycolic Acid soap-free cleanser (use daily in the PM)
• Supergoop Unseen SPF 40 (use daily)
• CeraVe Ultra-Light Moisturizing Lotion SPF 30 (use daily)
• ColoreScience Sunforgettable Total Protection: Brush-on powder sunscreen, with SPF 30 (use daily)

Stronger AHA products:

• The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution (use 3x/week)
• Ole Henriksen Glow2OH Dark Spot Toner: Glycolic + Lactic Acid (use 3x/week)
• Youth to the People Kombucha + 10% AHA Power Exfoliant (use 3x/week)

A Word on Retinol

There are less irritating forms of retinol for balanced skin, and even specialty products like eye creams that use encapsulated retinol for anti-aging and mild exfoliation. However, if you’re trying to treat acne with retinol, you should work with a dermatologist to find a prescription-strength product that works best for your skin. In my opinion, very few over the counter retinol products work well for acne.