How to Effectively Use AHAs in Your Skincare Routine, Based on Your Skin Type

By Sarah Otto

How to Effectively Use AHAs in Your Skincare Routine, Based on Your Skin Type

Acids can be a beautiful addition to your skincare routine. However, there’s a fine line between great results and going overboard. Those with sensitive skin know this to be true—but even more balanced and oily skin types can disrupt their skin’s barrier, causing irritation, redness and worsened skin conditions.

The bottom line? Acids work quickly and efficiently to achieve healthy, glowing skin—which can be addictive. Unfortunately, overuse can result in the opposite effect. Acids have a meaningful place in your skincare routine, but you need to know how and when and which type of acid to use.

Of all the different acids on the market today, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are the most effective and the most irritating. The top AHAs include Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Mandelic Acid and Fruit Acids, also referred to as Multifruit AHAs. These acids are water-soluble and exfoliate the skin, which help to smooth, soften, fade dark spots, improve breakouts and even minimize fine lines and wrinkles. However, if overused, it can lead to redness, dry or flaky skin and irritation. Overtime, it can also cause skin dehydration, creating more pronounced fine lines and wrinkles, making your skin look prematurely aged.

Here are some of the top reasons to incorporate an AHA into your skincare routine:

  • Promotes collagen production
  • Fades discoloration and evens tone
  • Smooths the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
  • Reduces breakouts
  • Brightens your complexion
  • Improves product absorption

Out of all these benefits, the most important is improved product absorption. Because of this, you’ll want to pair your AHA with other superstar ingredients like Niacinamide and Vitamin C. Gently exfoliating just before, or in combination with these ingredients helps them work even better. Keep in mind that AHAs increase sun sensitivity, so it’s best to use all of these ingredients together at night.

Each skin type requires different AHA routines. Here are three different plans based on sensitive, balanced and oily/acne-prone (for those who are oily but not acne prone, follow the balanced skin plan)...

How to Use AHAs for Sensitive Skin

Those with sensitive skin may experience occasional redness, eczema or rosacea. In general, you may break out into rashes or experience blotchy, itchy or stinging reactions from the weather or skincare products.

Day Shift: Your Morning Skincare Routine

  1. Step One: Rinse your face with warm water in the AM.
  2. Step Two: Apply an antioxidant serum with hydrating ingredients, such as Hyaluronic Acid or Ceramides.
  3. Step Three: Apply SPF.

Night Shift: Your Nightly Skincare Routine

  1. Step One: Wash your face with a gentle cleanser.
  2. Step Two: Apply a powerhouse serum that has highly effective ingredients, such as Niacinamide and/or Vitamin C with a mild AHA (like a Multifruit AHA or Mandelic Acid). Depending on your skin’s sensitivity, you may only be able to tolerate this type of serum two to three times a week.
  3. Step Three: Follow up with your esthetician for a quarterly or seasonal facial. Opt for a Lactic Acid or Mandelic treatment no more than four times a year.

Product Recommendations:

How to Use AHAs for Balanced Skin

Those with a balanced skin type are neither too dry nor too oily. You’re not prone to breakouts, flakiness, sensitivity, blemishes or grease. Your pores may be on the smaller side, and your skin texture can be described as smooth.

Day Shift: Your Morning Skincare Routine

  1. Step One: Rinse face with warm water in the AM.
  2. Step Two: Apply an antioxidant serum with hydrating Hyaluronic Acid and plumping peptides.
  3. Step Three: Apply tinted sunscreen or any makeup with SPF to save a step

Night Shift: Your Nightly Skincare Routine

  1. Step One: Wash face with a gentle cleanser.
  2. Step Two: Apply a powerhouse serum that has highly effective ingredients, such as Niacinamide and/or Vitamin C with a mild AHA (like a Multifruit AHA or Mandelic Acid).
  3. Step Three: You may choose to add a retinol product or glycolic/lactic acid solution no more than twice a week.
  4. Step Four: Follow up with an esthetician for a quarterly facial and request a glycolic acid peel. Your esthetician can recommend the best plan for incorporating stronger acids during your facial—you may need to use Lactic Acid instead, especially during the winter months.

Product Recommendations:

How to Use AHAs for Oily or Acne-Prone Skin

Those with an oily skin type experience excess oil on the face, giving off a shiny or greasy appearance. You likely experience blackheads, pimples and other types of acne, as your pores are prone to clogging.

Day Shift: Your Morning Skincare Routine

  1. Step One: Cleanse morning and night with a mild cleanser. You may want to add a salicylic or glycolic acid cleanser at night, if dealing with mild to moderate breakouts.
  2. Step Two: Apply an antioxidant-rich serum with Vitamin C and hydrating ingredients, like Hyaluronic Acid, to offset stronger acids you’re using in your routine.
  3. Step Three: Use an SPF product ideal for oily skin.

Night Shift: Your Nightly Skincare Routine

  1. Step One: Cleanse with a gentle cleanser or glycolic or salicylic cleanser.
  2. Step Two: Apply a powerhouse serum that has highly effective ingredients, such as Niacinamide and/or Vitamin C with a mild AHA (like a Multifruit AHA or Mandelic Acid).
  3. Step Three: Add a stronger AHA solution three to four times a week, and rotate it with a retinol product two to three times a week.
  4. Step Four: Work with your esthetician to formulate an acne plan for facials. This can be very effective for treating acne when paired with the correct at-home routine.

Product Recommendations:

Stronger AHA products:

A Word on Retinol

There are less irritating forms of retinol for balanced skin, and even specialty products like eye creams that use encapsulated retinol for anti-aging and mild exfoliation. However, if you’re trying to treat acne with retinol, you should work with a dermatologist to find a prescription-strength product that works best for your skin. In my opinion, very few over the counter retinol products work well for acne.

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