This post was reviewed and updated by Sarah Otto, Dermatology Nurse Practitioner and Founder of Otto Skin Goods on June 4, 2026.
Hyperpigmentation, or discoloration and dark spots, can be caused for many issues. Think: sun damage, post-inflammatory reactions from breakouts or eczema, and hormonal changes such as melasma—a common pigmentation disorder that causes brown or gray patches to appear on the skin, primarily on the face. (Note: Melasma is one of the most difficult forms of hyperpigmentation to treat.)
The truth is, everyone experiences at least one of these issues every once in a while. And even though it may feel impossible to treat, there's hope!
Spring is the ideal season to address pigmentation issues because some of the ingredients used to treat it can cause sun sensitivity. It’s difficult to increase these actives in the summer (because of sun damage) and even more difficult in the winter (because of dryness).
Look for these five ingredients in your skincare routine to incorporate now, so you can have a bright, even and balanced complexion by summer.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C helps brighten your skin and fade pigmentation issues by inhibiting melanin production, which lightens discoloration and evens skin tone. The important thing to keep in mind with this active is that it has many forms. The gold standard is Ascorbic Acid, or L-ascorbic Acid, but it can become very unstable when exposed to light and oxygen. That’s exactly why this form of Vitamin C should always be stored in an airtight container that’s opaque—or even better, in the form of a powder that’s mixed into skincare or activated with water prior to each use.
Vitamin C derivatives, on the other hand, are much more stable and aren’t as sensitive to light or oxygen. Here at Otto, we believe these are much easier to use and offer very similar results. Our favorite Vitamin C derivatives are Glyceryl Ascorbate, which can be found in The Go-Getter Day Serum and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, which is found in The Fresh Start Face Oil. Not only are these derivatives just as effective as traditional Vitamin C, they can be stored in clear glass without the risk of breaking down their effectiveness.
AHAs
Alpha Hydroxy Acids, or AHAs, are a group of natural or synthetic ingredients that help to exfoliate the uppermost layers of the skin. We love AHAs because turning over the top layer of the skin quickly helps fade hyperpigmentation, even skin tone and brighten the skin—so this ingredient is a must. Both Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid are synthetic forms of AHA, while fruit acids are naturally occurring. We’re big fans of all three of these options, but we highly recommend fruit acids.
Niacinamide
Niacinamide, or Vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that’s an incredible multitasker for improved skin health. It works to fade pigmentation issues, specifically by preventing the transfer of pigment within the skin, therefore reducing the appearance of brown spots. In addition, it helps banish redness, preserve hydration and improve the skin barrier.
Bearberry Extract
Bearberry Extract is a natural form of arbutin. Arbutin is a popular skin-lightening ingredient that works by reducing melanin synthesis (melanin synthesis inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which creates pigment in the skin). Bottom line? Bearberry Extract is living proof that nature is full of hardworking ingredients.
SPF
Besides preventing melanoma, sunscreen is a must if you want to reduce hyperpigmentation. While it’s not an ingredient that actually fades sun damage, it prevents further damage and allows your skin to tolerate many of the above ingredients, without causing more hyperpigmentation issues. Daily application of at least SPF 30 will help to shield your skin from UV light to control melanin production on a cellular level. If you don’t already use SPF, get on it ASAP.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is hyperpigmentation?
Hyperpigmentation refers to discoloration and dark spots on the skin. It can be caused by sun damage, post-inflammatory reactions from breakouts or eczema, and hormonal changes. Melasma, a common pigmentation disorder that causes brown or gray patches on the face, is one of the most difficult forms to treat.
Why is spring the best time to treat hyperpigmentation?
Many of the ingredients used to treat pigmentation can cause sun sensitivity. Spring is the sweet spot: summer makes it hard to increase these actives without risking further sun damage, and winter's dryness poses its own challenges.
What ingredients should I look for to treat hyperpigmentation?
There are five key ingredients: Vitamin C, AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids), Niacinamide, Bearberry Extract, and SPF.
How does Vitamin C help with hyperpigmentation?
Vitamin C inhibits melanin production, which lightens discoloration and evens skin tone. The gold standard form is Ascorbic Acid (L-ascorbic Acid), but it's unstable when exposed to light and oxygen and requires careful storage. Vitamin C derivatives like Glyceryl Ascorbate and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate are more stable, easier to use, and offer very similar results.
What are AHAs and how do they work?
Alpha Hydroxy Acids are natural or synthetic ingredients that exfoliate the uppermost layers of the skin. By turning over the top layer of skin quickly, they help fade hyperpigmentation, even skin tone, and brighten the complexion. Common forms include Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, and naturally occurring fruit acids.
What does Niacinamide do for the skin?
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) is a water-soluble vitamin that works specifically to prevent the transfer of pigment within the skin, reducing the appearance of brown spots. It also helps reduce redness, preserve hydration, and strengthen the skin barrier.
What is Bearberry Extract?
Bearberry Extract is a natural form of arbutin, a popular skin-lightening ingredient that reduces melanin synthesis by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for creating pigment in the skin.
Why is SPF important for treating hyperpigmentation?
Sunscreen doesn't fade existing dark spots, but it prevents further damage and allows your skin to better tolerate the other active ingredients without triggering more hyperpigmentation. Daily use of at least SPF 30 helps shield skin from UV light and control melanin production at a cellular level.
Can hyperpigmentation actually be treated?
Yes! While some forms like melasma can be especially stubborn, incorporating the right ingredients into your routine (particularly in spring) can lead to a noticeably brighter, more even complexion by summer.
