Exfoliating acids in skincare have gained popularity over the past few years—and for good reason! Acids are multifunctional, because they’ve been shown to improve mild acne, fade hyperpigmentation, boost collagen production, smooth fine lines and accelerate your cell turnover rate to promote a brighter, more refreshed appearance.
So, what are acids, anyway?
Acids are a skincare ingredient used to exfoliate. They work by loosening the fluid that binds the cells to the upper surface of your skin. This leads to increased shedding of the upper layers of your complexion, leading to a smoother, brighter tone.
Of all the different acids on the market today, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are the most effective—and the most irritating. AHAs are water-soluble and work mainly on the outermost layer of the skin. The top AHAs include Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Mandelic Acid and Fruit Acids, also referred to as Multifruit AHAs. Let’s take a closer look at a few of these…
Derived from sugar
Smallest molecule of all the acids
Penetrates the deepest and works the best
Increased risk of irritation and sun sensitivity
Regenerates collagen production
Evens skin tone and texture
Smooths fine lines and wrinkles
Derived from sugar or fermented milk
Second smallest molecule
Gentler than glycolic, which makes it a moisturizing agent, too
Good for those with sensitive skin
Smooths and evens rough skin
The gentlest option
Citric-derived from lemon or grapefruit, and malic from apples
Largest molecule
Works mainly on the uppermost layer of the skin
Gentle enough for daily use
Star ingredient in The Multitasker Night Serum 1(5% Multifruit AHA)
May be combined with stronger acids, such as glycolic or lactic
Used once or twice a week
BHAs, aka beta-hydroxy acids, are considered oil-soluble, which means they penetrate deeper into the pores, allowing them to work better for oily, acne-prone skin. They also have anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties which help to dissolve excess oil in the pores. So, as you can imagine, BHAs are great for those who suffer from mild acne, clogged pores, white heads and blackheads.
The most common BHA is Salicylic Acid—which is best known for its success in treating acne. It penetrates and dissolves oil-clogged pores, exfoliates dead cells and also has anti-inflammatory properties!
The two main concerns of overusing AHAs is increased sun sensitivity and irritation. Over time, these can cause damage to the skin barrier. BHAs are typically reserved for less frequent use or only for those treating acne.
If you’re using AHAs for skin rejuvenation, evening skin texture and preventing mild breakouts—it’s best to use a gentler AHA, such as fruit acids, on a daily basis. From there, you’ll want to add a stronger combination of glycolic, lactic and salicylic acid one to three times a week, depending on your tolerance.
The bottom line? Acids work quickly and efficiently to achieve healthy, glowing skin—which can be addictive. Unfortunately, overuse can result in the opposite effect. Acids have a meaningful place in your skincare routine, but you need to know how and when and which type of acid to use.
Need a hand? Here’s an example of what my nighttime skincare routine looks like:
Step One: Wash with Otto’s gentle hydrating cleanser, The Good Day Face Cleanser (2% ceramides)
Step Two: Swipe on a few pumps of Otto’s fruit acid and niacinamide serum, The Multitasker Night Serum (15% multifruit AHA + 7% niacinamide)
Step Three: End by smoothing on Otto’s vitamin C face oil, The Fresh Start Face Oil (20% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate)
Step Four: Use a stronger glycolic, lactic or salicylic acid product one to three times a week, or as needed
0 comments
